Frequently asked questions

Allergy

1. What is an allergy?

‘Allergy’ is a term that is often misused to describe all kinds of adverse reactions. In fact, many consumers may have experienced some sort of sensory perception during hair colouring some time in the past, but only a very small number of these reactions are an allergy.

There are two main types of adverse reactions that may be experienced: irritant reactions and allergic reactions.

Irritant reactions are the most common adverse reactions and should not be confused with allergic reactions. An irritant type of reaction occurs rapidly following use of a product and does not involve the immune system. Redness of the skin, sometimes with stinging or itching, is characteristic of an irritant effect. This is limited to the site of contact and clears up rapidly after ceasing to use the product that is causing the problem.

Allergic reactions are excessive reactions by our bodies to substances in our environment that are harmless to the majority. Unlike irritant reactions, allergic reactions involve the body’s immune system. Allergies are a widespread issue today. Allergies can arise as a reaction to both natural and synthetic substances found in a person’s environment or food.

Allergic reactions cannot occur after a single exposure to an allergen: a second or multiple exposures are necessary. A person who is allergic to a substance is sensitised to it for the rest of their life. It is important to note that only a small proportion of the population is potentially allergic.

There are two common types of allergic reactions:

  • Immediate:
    an allergic reaction that occurs suddenly, generally a few minutes after exposure to the allergen. Common examples are hay fever triggered by pollen or allergic asthma triggered by animal hair. This type of reaction is extremely infrequent with cosmetic products.

  • Delayed:
    an allergic reaction that does not show until some time, usually 24 to 48 hours, after contact with the allergen: known as allergic contact dermatitis. This is triggered by skincontact with the allergen and a local reaction occurs. This may, infrequently, extend beyond the area of contact. If further contact with the allergen is avoided, there will be no further reaction and the skin heals.

2. Am I likely to have an allergy after colouring my hair?

Millions of people all over the world use hair colorants without experiencing any unwanted effects. The number of severe allergic reactions to substances used in hair colorants is very small given the fact that they are used by millions of people every day. European figures show that the incidence of marked or severe allergic reaction to hair colorants is approximately three- five in every million units sold ∗.

∗ Krasteva, M., Bons, B., Tozer, S., Rich, K., Hoting, E., Hollenberg, D., Fuchs, A., Fautz, R. “Contact allergy to hair colouring products. The cosmetovigilance experience of 4 companies (2003-2006). Eur J Dermatol 2010; 20 (1): 85-95

A very small number of people may have an allergic reaction to the hair colorant they have used, for example they may get an itchy scalp or some redness on their head after colouring their hair. An even smaller number of people may have a more severe allergic reaction, which needs medical attention. This should not be confused with some mild irritant reactions which may be experienced after use of hair colouring products (itching, burning, stinging and sometimes redness of the scalp) which appear within minutes after hair dye application and disappear within hours.

A person who is allergic to a substance is very likely to be sensitised to it for the rest of their life and must avoid exposure even if the ingredient is in another product type or brand.

Where a higher risk of allergy has been identified, such as with some hair dyes, the product will always carry a warning label and users will be advised to carry out an Allergy Alert Test before applying the product in full.

Using the Allergy Alert Test as directed by the manufacturer in the product pack will help to alert you to any potential reaction on a small area before you apply the product to the whole head.

3. What is the Allergy Alert Test?

The Allergy Alert Test represents an important precaution and provides an indication that a reaction may occur if you go on to colour your hair. The Allergy Alert Test simply means checking whether you are likely to tolerate the hair colorant of choice on a small, discreet skin area.

Manufacturers advise performing an Allergy Alert Test before using permanent hair colorants. A positive reaction is a clear signal that your body may have been sensitised to a substance in that product. As indicated in the manufacturer’s instructions you must wait 48 hours for the body’s biological mechanism to work to see if you react to a test before you can go ahead and colour your hair. If you see redness, swelling or sensitivity (for example skin pricking) then do not use the product. Also do not pick another brand since that might contain the same ingredient which led to your reaction. See your doctor or dermatologist to investigate further.

This test represents an important precaution. However, be aware that even if an Allergy Alert Test has been carried out you may still experience an allergic reaction when you colour your hair. The Allergy Alert Test is not a guarantee of avoiding future allergic reactions. Please consult a doctor, if you have any doubts.

4. Why should I make sure I do the Allergy Alert Test 48 hours before colouring my hair?

Waiting 48 hours for the test result can seem inconvenient but we are constrained by biology; the delayed contact allergy reaction may take up to 48 hours to develop. If you cut corners, you risk missing a positive reaction. The test recommended by the respective manufacturers is the best available, tailored to each of the many different products on the market. Independently reviewed research shows that the Allergy Alert Test is highly effective when carried out as instructed.

It is important to know that we can’t cut corners on timing. However there are other possible alternatives if you want to colour your hair quickly, such as hair mascaras or some temporary hair colorants. It is always important though with any hair colouring product to read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully.

5. What do I do if I have a reaction to the Allergy Alert Test?

If you have a reaction to the Allergy Alert Test (such as experiencing any stinging or burning and/or rash and/or swelling) do not go ahead and colour your hair, even with a product you may have used before. Contact the manufacturer (careline or helpline numbers are provided on the pack), the company will help you and your doctor organise diagnostic patch-testing with a dermatologist. This will identify which ingredient led to the reaction. You must not use any product containing that ingredient in future, even another manufacturer.

Consult a doctor or seek medical advice.

If you have any further questions, contact the manufacturer (careline or helpline numbers are provided on the pack).

6. I have coloured my hair safely in the past. Should I still do the test?

Yes, you always should do the Allergy Alert Test. First, the hair colorant you are planning to use may feature a hair dye you haven’t used before. Secondly, and most importantly, allergies can develop over time and they can be also caused by other products, for example temporary "black henna" tattoos. Therefore, one should always carry out the Allergy Alert Test for reassurance.

7. I heard tattoos can cause hair dye allergies. Is this correct?

Certain temporary henna tattoos, primarily the darker and black ones, can induce an allergy which can become evident the next time you colour your hair. Many of these temporary "black henna" tattoos have been shown to contain the same ingredients used, legally and safely, in hair colorants, but at much higher concentrations which remain on the skin for a long time. This is an illegal use of hair colouring ingredients. It is important to remember you can develop an allergy to a hair colorant at any time, even if you’ve never had any problems before.

8. If I have had a "black henna" tattoo?

A temporary "black henna" tattoo may increase your risk of having an allergic reaction when you colour your hair.

If you have had a "black henna" tattoo, then it is extremely important that you follow all of the manufacturer's instructions and perform the Allergy Alert Test 48 hours before colouring your hair. If you experience any reaction to the Allergy Alert Test, DO NOT go on to colour your hair. If you are in any doubt, consult a doctor or seek medical advice.

If you have experienced any reaction to temporary "black henna" tattoo in the past, DO NOT colour your hair.

Our industry is very concerned by the increasing popularity of so called temporary "black henna" tattoos. True henna extract is orange-red in colour. Temporary "black henna" tattoos are not only made up of henna, but are mixed with a substance called PPD (paraphenylene diamine). Whilst PPD is used safely in hair colorants, it is not allowed for use directly on the skin in the EU. However consumers may encounter certain so-called temporary “black henna“ tattoos at fairs and/or in holiday regions around the world. These temporary "black henna" tattoos which contain a high amount of PPD may also cause long-term damage by making your skin more susceptible to reactions when you use other safe products which contain PPD, such as hair colorants which are used throughout the European Union and the world.

9. I want to colour my hair for a party this evening – can I do this?

Most hair colorants are labelled with instructions to carry out an Allergy Alert Test 48 hours before colouring the hair. Waiting 48 hours for the test result can seem inconvenient, but we are constrained by the body’s in-built response time; an allergic reaction takes up to 48 hours to develop. It is important to know that we can’t cut corners on timing; if you do, you risk missing a potential adverse reaction.

However, there are other possible alternatives if you want to colour your hair quickly, which don’t require the Allergy Alert Test. Available products include hair mascaras, coloured hair mousse and some temporary hair colorants. The instructions must always be read and followed carefully.

It is important to note that these products do not exclude the risk of allergy. If any hair colouring product says to perform an Allergy Alert Test then you must follow these directions and the timings closely.

10. Can I be sensitised doing the Allergy Alert Test?

While some experts have raised this question, we are not aware of any reports of someone being sensitised after performing the Allergy Alert Test (evidence of such an active sensitisation by a product would present itself as a reaction appearing at the contact site later than 10 days after application). Such reactions have not yet been reported in the scientific literature.

Safety

1. Can I use hair colouring products if I am pregnant or breastfeeding?

Colouring your hair when you are breastfeeding or pregnant is safe. The safety of the mother-to-be is an integral part of the hair colorant safety assessment. As always, it is really important to make sure you follow the product instructions and carry out the Allergy Alert Test as directed 48 hours before colouring your hair. Remember that, during pregnancy and breast feeding, the body may react differently.

Even though there are no safety concerns the colouring itself, we are aware that some women may still be concerned about colouring their hair at this time and they may choose to avoid the source of anxiety and not have their hair coloured at this time or talk to their physician.

2. Can I use hair colouring products if I have had a "black henna" tattoo?

A temporary "black henna" tattoo can increase your risk of having an allergic reaction when you colour your hair.

If you have had a temporary "black henna" tattoo, then it is extremely important that you follow all of the manufacturer’s instructions and perform the 48 hours before colouring your hair. If you experience any reaction to the Allergy Alert Test, DO NOT go on to colour your hair. If you are in any doubt, consult a doctor or seek medical advice.

If you have experienced any reaction to temporary "black henna" tattoo in the past, DO NOT colour your hair.

Our industry is very concerned by the increasing popularity of so called temporary "black henna" tattoos. True henna extract is orange-red in colour. Temporary "black henna" tattoos are not only made up of henna, but are mixed with a substance called PPD (paraphenylene diamine). Whilst PPD is used safely in hair colorants, it is not allowed for use directly on the skin in the EU. However consumers may encounter certain so-called temporary “black henna“ tattoos at fairs and/or in holiday regions around the world. These temporary "black henna" tattoos which contain a high amount of PPD may also cause long-term damage by making your skin more susceptible to reactions when you use other safe products which contain PPD, such as hair colorants which are used throughout the European Union and the world.

3. Can hair colorants be used by children?

Hair colorants are not intended for use on children.

Because of some cases of improper and irresponsible use of hair colorants by children in the past, European regulators in close alignment with hair colorant manufacturers agreed to mandatory labelling which states that hair colorants are not intended for use on persons under the age of 16.

This is not because of concerns but regarding the ability of those 16 years of age to read, understand and follow the instructions carefully and to use the product responsibly, which is an integral part of colouring the hair (such as being mindful of the correct frequency of product use, identifying drastic colour changes, awareness of a potential adverse reaction, etc).

4. Should I wear gloves?

Yes. To prevent your palms/hands and your nails getting stained, always wear the gloves provided in the hair colorant pack. Use of gloves is also important to limit the hair colorant exposure to the skin and so minimise a potential risk of allergy.

Product performance

1. Can I use hair colouring products if my hair has been coloured with henna?

Do not use any hair colouring products if your hair has been coloured with henna, because it may be difficult to predict the resulting colour as well as affecting the condition of your hair. In this case, it is better to seek professional advice, by calling the manufacturer or enquireing at a professional salon.

2. Can I colour my hair if it has been coloured with metallic salts previously?

Do not use any hair colouring products if your hair has been coloured with a product based on metal salts or metal dyes, because it may be difficult to predict the resulting colour as well as affecting the condition of your hair. On this occasion it is either better to call the manufacturer’s careline or to seek advice a professional salon.

3. Over permed, relaxed or straightened hair?

  • Permed hair:
    Depending on the colorant being applied, it is may be advisable to wait for two weeks after having a perm, and vice versa. Make sure the instructions are followed carefully and seek advice a professional salon or call the manufacturer’s care line for further guidance if needed.

  • Relaxed or Straightened hair:
    Depending on the colorant being applied, you may have to wait at least 2 weeks after relaxing your hair before colouring. There are products available which can be used for relaxed hair. Make sure the instruction sheet is followed carefully and if further guidance is needed, seek advice a professional salon.

  • Over lightened or highlighted hair:
    Care must be taken when using colouring products on already highlighted hair. The colour result may be patchy, and not as expected. It is important to always read the instruction leaflet carefully before every application of any hair colouring product; this will provide the correct advice specific to the product. If needed, you may wish to seek advice a professional salon.

    If you have bleached hair, it is possible to use a colorant over bleached hair; however you must read the instructions for use carefully and follow the advice.

  • Over styling gels/waxes/sprays:
    The instruction leaflets with the hair colouring product will explain whether you have to wash your hair before starting the application. Please read and follow the instructions carefully. However, in general if any of these products are in your hair, we suggest that the hair is washed the day before the colorant is to be applied, because the barrier created by these products may not give the desired colour result.

    Also if these products have caused a build up in the hair, due to being frequently used between washes, we suggest that the hair be washed the day before colouring your hair. If in doubt, contact the manufacturer’s care line. Many manufacturers have care line or help line numbers on their packs, or on their websites

4. How long must I wait between each colour application?

The hair colorant pack and leaflet will provide advice on this, and it will also depend on the type of colouring product (permanent or temporary, etc). Normal frequency would be one colouring procedure every 4 to 6 weeks.

5. Can I apply hair colouring products on other body parts such as eyelashes/eyebrows/beard/moustache…?

No. Hair colorants are intended for colouring the hair on the head and should not be used on other parts of the body. There are other products available specifically designed to colour eyelashes, eyebrows and the beard, which should always be used for these areas. These regions are often small, delicate and the colorant may be difficult to apply without the risk of the product leaking into the eyes, etc, which must be avoided.

6. I want to colour my hair for a party this evening – can I do this?

Most hair colorants are labelled with instructions to carry out an Allergy Alert Test 48 hours before colouring the hair. Waiting 48 hours for the test result can seem inconvenient, but we are constrained by the body’s in-built response time; an allergic reaction takes up to 48 hours to develop. It is important to know that we can’t cut corners on timing; if you do, you risk missing a potential adverse reaction.

However there are other possible alternatives if you want to colour your hair quickly, which don’t require the Allergy Alert Test. Available products include hair mascaras, coloured hair mousse and some temporary hair colorants. The instructions must always be read and followed carefully.

It is important to note that these products do not exclude the risk of allergy. If any hair colouring product says to perform an Allergy Alert Test then you must follow these directions and the timings closely.

7. What are the different types of hair colour categories?

There are four main categories of hair colorants, depending on the duration of effect produced: temporary, semi-permanent, tone-on-tone / demi-permanent and permanent.

  • Permanent hair colour
    Permanent or oxidation hair colorants are easy to recognise. Normally the pack contains at least two components which have to be mixed together immediately prior to use. Oxidative hair colorants change the natural hair colourant give the hair – depending on the formulation – either "tone-on-tone" colour (also referred to as "demi-permanents") or "permanent", lasting colour. They are the only products that can colour in a shade lighter than the natural one.

    Permanent colorants cannot be washed out and this is the more traditional way of permanently changing hair colour. They produce an effect that is resistant to washing and are chosen to provide long term colour changes, ranging a subtle to dramatic, as well as excellent coverage of “grey” hair.

    The two components that are mixed consist usually of a tube that will contain the colorant precursors and an alkaline agent (the ‘colorant’) and a bottle that contains hydrogen peroxide (the ‘developer’).

  • Tone-on-tone / demi-permanent hair colour
    Tone-on-tone colorants also include an oxidation step (for example, mixing with peroxide) but do not provide a marked lightening of the hair’s natural pigment. Tone-on-tones traditionally enhance or deepen the natural hair colour. The final colour is quite durable and will gradually wash out after approximately up to 28 shampoos.

  • Semi-permanent hair colour
    Semi-permanent hair colorants are made of colorant molecules that are able to penetrate the hair. These products tend to be ready-to-use (no pre-mixing) and contain "direct" colorants. These colorants settle on and within the scales of the hair cuticle, becoming established around the cortex without modifying the hair’snatural internal colour. The colour gradually fades with washing and it normally stays in for up to 6-8 washes.

  • Temporary hair colour
    Temporary hair colorants modify the colour of the hair temporarily and are readily removed by washing. These colorant molecules are unable to penetrate the hair fibre and settle on the hair surface. The combination of these molecules with the natural hair colour provides the new shade.

8. What other products can be used?

  • Lighteners / decolourisers

    Hydrogen Peroxide Solutions, Lightening Setting Lotions
    A practical formulation for these hydrogen peroxide solutions, which do not require a final rinse, is the setting lotion. It may be available as sprays. All these types of lotion give appreciable, progressive lightening results when applied regularly, for example once a week.

    When hydrogen peroxide is made available to home users, the product should be left to act for a number of hours, in general for 12 hours, to let the hair go about two tones lighter.

    Lightening Creams and lightening gels which generally contain ammonia also exist for people who wish to obtain a high level of lightening Just before use, they should be mixed with a quantity of hydrogen peroxide

    Hydrogen Peroxide Solutions, Lightening Setting Lotions
    Bleaching is the lightening of a natural hair shade. Sometimes, however, one needs to carry out partial or complete removal of semipermanent or permanent dyes. It is always more difficult to remove artificial pigments than natural ones, and their removal is a delicate operation demanding all the skill of an experienced hairdresser.

  • Highlights and bleaching

    Hair lighteners can be applied all over the head, or as highlights.

    In the first case, the lightening system often contains three components : a powder with persulfates / a liquid or a cream with alkaline agent / the developer with hydrogen peroxide. In the second case, the lightening system often contains two components: a powder with persulfates / the developer with hydrogen peroxide.

    The mix is done in a bowl or in a bottle. Different tools are proposed to apply the product on heads: cap + hook, traditional brush, applicator bottle, etc…

    Lighteners do not contain any colorants. They can be used alone and will enable to lighten up to seven tones depending on the kit chosen. The lightening process is permanent. The longer the processing time is, the lighter is the result. Caution: don’t lengthen the recommended processing time! In all cases, always refer to manufacturers’ instructions and follow directions closely.

    In some instances, they can be used prior to a permanent hair colour:

    • • On natural hair, when the chosen shade is more than 2 tones lighter than the natural hair,
    • • On colored hair, when the highlight of the chosen shade is different the current one,
    • • On colored hair, when the chosen shade is lighter than the current one.

9. I have used hair colouring products for many years. Should I stop?

No, there is no need to stop using hair colorants; as long as you have not experienced any reactions to the hair colouring products and that you follow the product instructions and perform the Allergy Alert Test as directed, if instructed to do so, 48 hours before colouring the hair.

If you have experienced any reaction to a hair colouring product, then you should stop using all hair colorants and consult with a doctor or a dermatologist. You should also contact the manufacturer of the hair colorant to which you experienced a reaction.

10. I have heard stories about hair dyes and possible links to cancer – is this true?

No. Cancer concerns raised occasionally by single studies have been disproved. Leading scientific experts, including numerous world-renowned organisations, who have reviewed the science on hair colorants are confident they are safe to use as instructed. Professor Andreas Hensel at the German Federal Institute for Risk Assessment (BfR), has stated: “There is no risk of cancer through use of hair dyes for consumers."

Read more about independent scientific expert research…

11. How can I be sure my hair colorant is safe?

Safety is the number one priority for the cosmetics industry. Hair colorants are one of the most thoroughly studied consumer products on the market and their safety is supported by a wealth of scientific research. As with any other cosmetic product, hair colorants are subject to stringent European safety legislation (the EU Cosmetics Directive); this requires that they must be safe. Every new product must undergo a full safety assessment before it is allowed to be sold.

Manufacturers go further than is required by law to provide clear warnings and instructions.

12. Can I be sure not to get an allergic reaction colouring my hair if my Allergy Alert Test was negative?

The absence of a reaction to the industry-recommended Allergy Alert Test is no guarantee that an allergic reaction may not occur as a result of future hair colouring procedures. However, this test represents an important precaution. In case of doubt, seek medical advice.

13. Should I apply hair colour on dry or damp hair? pre-washed or not?

Before using any hair colorant, you should always read the instruction leaflet carefully and follow all directions exactly. The leaflet contains important tips and suggestions, including answers to these questions.

14. What should I do if my hair is very long?

If you have very thick or long hair (shoulder length or longer) you may consider using two packs of the same product in case you believe/think that the product volume is not enough.

15. Is it advisable to mix two hair colouring products?

It is not advisable to mix shades or two different products because it is difficult to predict the resulting colour. This is also usually the advice given in the product instruction leaflets, unless a specific brand provides guidance on this (this is normally only for products used by hairdressing professionals). Always read and follow any instructions carefully. You can also contact the individual companies; the manufacturer's address should be clearly stated on pack and many manufacturers have careline or helpline numbers or website addresses on their packs.

16. What happens if I exceed the recommended processing time?

While not being an issue of safety, always keep exactly to the stated application time. The colouring process stops after the stated time and leaving it on the hair for longer may affect the hair colouring performance. The longer the hair is exposed to the hair colorant may have some impact on the natural hair structure and strength; so it is advisable to rinse after the recommended time.

17. What happens if I rinse out the product before the end of the processing time?

The hair colouring reaction takes place over a known period of time. While not a safety concern, the colouring process may not be completed and the coverage and shade may not meet expectations if the product is rinsed off before the recommended time. One possible reason for rinsing the product before the recommended time is when you experience any kind of adverse reaction during colouring which may be evidence of a potential allergic reaction. In such cases rinse the product immediately.

18. The hair colouring product changes colour throughout the processing time. Should I worry?

No, this is normal and to be expected. The active hair dye ingredients begin to develop and create the desired colour over a period of time in the hair, during the oxidation process.

19. Can I keep any left-over colorant mixture for later use?

No. Once combined, the hair colorant mix cannot be used again later as the colouring reaction starts with the initial mixing and ends after a specific, given time.

The product pack and/or leaflet will provide guidance on how to dispose of any left over product.

Mix the two components of a hair colorant as directed and make sure that they are thoroughly blended.

However, any colourant remaining that has not been mixed with the developer can be used again afterwards. For example: after using a small amount for performing the Allergy Alert Test, the unmixed colourant can be kept in the re-sealed container and can still be used 48hrs later for the actual hair colouring procedure (if there has been no reaction to the Allergy Alert Test).

20. My skin is stained. How can I remove it? How can I prevent staining?

Please see advice given on-pack/in leaflets for removing any stain, although you may use a gentle shampoo to wash the colour the skin. To protect your forehead, hairline and nape colour splashes and staining, apply a liberal amount of petroleum jelly (for example Vaseline) or skin cream. If any colorant mixture does settle on the face, remove it as quickly as possible using a mild facial toner. If in doubt, contact the manufacturer’s care line. Many manufacturers have care line or help line numbers on their packs, or on their websites.

21. I have just applied the colour and I am unhappy with the result.

There are a number of reasons why the colour result may not be as you expected. The condition of your hair, the method that was used and also previous colour applications can all have an influence on your colour result. A professional salon can advise you.

22. Can I apply another hair colour immediately?

No. There may be an alternative solution to quickly correct the colour. It is recommended that you visit a professional salon for guidance.

23. How do I remove it?

If the colour is more intense then you imagined:
If your hair seems too bright or vibrant then wash it immediately with shampoo and then nourish your hair with an intensive treatment or conditioner for about 30 minutes. The shampoo strips the fine keratin layer the hair and then works with the active ingredients in the treatment to draw colour pigment out of the shaft. The colour can then be softened by rinsing out some of the pigment.

If your new blonde tone has a red tinge:
Dark hair colours may naturally contain red colour pigment, so if this occurs seek professional advice.

If there a slightly green tone to the result:
In very rare cases, blondes can take on a tinge of green because of either impurities in the water such as copper, salts and chlorine or simply too much sun. The green tinge can be neutralised with the tiny red pigments found in shampoos for colour treated hair.

You can also contact the specific manufacturer for help; the manufacturer's address should be clearly stated on pack and many manufacturers have careline or helpline numbers on their packs, or on their websites. Or you can visit your professional hair salon for advice.